Int J Cosmet Sci. 1986 Oct;8(5):215-24. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1986.tb00451.x.
International journal of cosmetic science
M C Martini
PMID: 19457219 DOI: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1986.tb00451.x
Objective methods for evaluation of Sun Protection Factors (SPF) are numerous. Only the most used methods both in vitro and in vivo will be described. The results obtained with different types of spectrophotometric methods (solution, thin layer over quartz slides or measurement of transmittance and diffusion after coating with emulsions over the stratum corneum) show that only the last method, which involves an integration sphere, is able to give data in good correlation with in vivo Sun protection factors. Among in vivo methods, the animal of choice is the albino guinea pig, because of its sensitivity and erythemateous reactions similar to those of human skin. Nevertheless, this method is only reliable for product screening and true SPF values must be determined on humans. Two official methods, the American (FDA) and the German (DIN 67501). are described with advantages and disadvantages. In Fine, a new method which is a combination of these two methods is proposed. Twenty people are irradiated by a Xenon lamp which emits about 0.60 mw/cm(2) of UVB, 3.5 mw cm(-2) for UVA and IR, sufficient to obtain a temperature of 35 degrees C of the skin surface. The product is applied on the back of volunteers in quantity of 1 mg/cm(-2). Test zones have a surface of 2.25 cm(2). Irradiation begins 10 min after application of the product and the exposure times are increased from zone to zone following a geometric progression, with 1.25 as ratio. Two standard prepara- tions are used, one with SPF=4, the other with SPF=9-10. Erythema is evaluated visually 16 to 24 h after irradiation. Each SPF is determined using the classical ratio MED with sunscreenlMED without sunscreen and the geometrical mean is calculated to obtain the definitive value of SPF.
